Thursday, January 27, 2011

Sewing With Handwoven Wool

My Polka Drop fabric was woven some time ago, and now it’s time to move on with the sewing, not my strong suit by any means. I’m a competent seamstress, but not an intuitive one, so it's a real challenge for me.
I found two patterns that I liked a lot. The Butterick pattern is a reproduction of a 1952 pattern and I love, love, love it – but it didn’t have set in sleeves or a separate collar. The sleeves and the collar were attached to the back and the front, so they were huge pattern pieces. The Burda pattern had separate sleeves and collar pieces, so this was the basic pattern that I used.When I did my final fabric inspection I found a skip float that was about 12 inches in from the selvedge right across the whole width of the fabric! I had to use every square inch of my 30 inch wide fabric, so to make sure that I didn’t forget it, I marked it with red thread.With a lot of messing around I managed to get the error right at the end of the sleeve, so it would be on the inside hem - whewwwww.

I tried laying the pattern pieces every way I could think of on my doubled fabric, but I just barely had enough to handle the four major pieces. This didn’t leave a lot of fabric unused and what was left was in small pieces and I didn’t have enough left over for my collar!
There wasn't much left over at all, and what was left was oddly shaped and the collar pieces just wouldn't fit!I decided to purchase some navy velvet to use for the collar.
Not only would this allow me to customize the collar to make the coat unique but it would overcome any fabric scratchiness around the neck and face. Here is the jacket at the based stage and other than being too big for my model - it's looking good.I made a huge effort to line up the dots on the back of the jacket, isn’t Ngaire a great model in that perfect hand to the collar pose? Originally I'd hoped to have this swing jacket unlined, so that the reverseable fabric could be seen, but after cutting I knew this was not going to be. Now to sit down and attack the lining and collar!

8 comments:

Cindie Kitchin eweniquely ewe said...

I can't wait to see this finished!

Theresa said...

Oh my you are brave! Have you done a test run of the pattern? Its going to be lovely. I like the velvet collar myself, goes with that vintage feel so well.
I bet you can have some fun with the lining fabric pick!

Susan said...

If its not a straight line, I leave 'er be! Even zig zag is a heart racing adventure!

So there you go making a whole dang coat!

I love the old style patterns of the late 40's and into the 50's and this coat is going to be great! Can hardly wait to see it on you...

Susan

Lynnette said...

I wish the coat was for me....but I've lost a few pounds and I absolutly swim in this coat! I'll either have to give it away or hopefully some lovely 14+ tall lady will fall in love with it!

Peg Cherre said...

This will be stunning - it's already beautiful!

And congrats on your weight loss. Wish I could say the same thing.

Maggie said...

That is awesome! I love it! Love the pattern, the POLKA DOTS and the velvet collar. Now for some schwanky silk lining, no?

Margreet said...

Lovely project, love the pattern and the extra fabric for the collar. It will be a great coat when finished. Shame that it is not for yourself though!

Sharon said...

I'd love to know how wide the fabric was woven and off the loom. I want to take those trembling steps but, honestly, I'm not finding a whole lot of supporting documentation.