Again, since mohair is really fuzzy and prone to bridging use the lowest dent reed you have, in my case I had a 6 dent reed, so I was able to sley 1 per dent.
The real gem of information that I found on line was that the tie up should be done in the skeleton manner ~ one shaft to one treadle ~ so shaft 1 to treadle 1, shaft 2 to treadle 2, shaft 3 to treadle 3 and shaft 4 to treadle 4. Then when you start weaving you press treadle 1, then treadle 3 to make your first tabby pick, then repeat the process for treadle 2 and 4 for the second tabby. By lifting each shaft individually the bridging and tangling is minimized. This system works great for a Jack loom but not for a Countermarche like my Louet Spring.
For a countermarche loom the for the system to work is that you tie up treadle 1 to lift shaft 1, treadle 2 to lift shafts 1 and 3, treadle 3 to lift shaft 2, treadle 4 to lift shafts 2 and 4. When you change shafts you lift shaft 1 first then shaft 2, then you throw the pick, this works like a charm!
The really horrifying thing about weaving with mohair as both warp and weft is that it sticks and bridges and clings together like mad. You really don’t want to be un-weaving and if you do need to, you are forced to pull out clumps of mohair by hand just to change sheds.
After washing to get some fulling, and drying the shawl (which was a feat considering we have had the wettest November on record!); I needed to brush up the nap to get the full effect of the mohair.
I bought a self cleaning cat comb to do the brushing and that is when I found out that my fulling wasn’t great. Every pass of the comb made the weft move! What a nightmare, it just hadn't fulled enough! By this time I was totally 'un in love' with this piece.