I’d like to share my method of using a temple with you just as my friend Susan shared her tips with me to get me going! First you have to figure out what size to make the temple, so that it does its’ job of maintaining the warp width as sleyed in the reed and prevents narrowing of the woven cloth as you weave the web. I don’t use temples when weaving tea towels or quick wool scarves, but I do use them for rugs and table linens, where straight edges are essential.To find the correct width for my temple, I place the temple upside down against the reed and choose the pinhole that is closest in size as your sleyed warp. It's better to have the temple width a bit smaller than too big, ideally the pins or tenterhooks should just sit at the edge of the woven cloth. After pricking your finger on these tenterhooks a time or two you really understand the term "keeping you on tenterhooks", not a comfortable place to be!
When I move the temple, I move the slider brace back to allow the temple to tent up in the middle and place the tenterhooks in the selvedge about 1/16”from the edge. I really take my time to ensure that the hooks are positioned straight on the web and that they are all imbedded in the selvedge threads. You can imagine what would happen if you continuously placed the temple at an angle, after a couple of feet you would have significant draw in.
You should be able to gently push the temple down with one finger, if it takes any more pressure than that, you either have not been allowing enough slack on your weft throws or your temple is too long for the web. You’ve got to fix one or the other!
Lots of weavers complain that the holes made in the selvedges are permanent in the weaving. This should not be an issue; the temple should only be in one place for moments and check that the pins are in the right place and not piercing through or shredding any weft threads.
The holes can be finger rubbed right out and totally disappear after wet finishing.
I have a couple of other tips for you; never leave the temple in place when you leave the loom as it will stretch your web and never leave the temple in place when you advance the warp as it can cause damage on a slack web. I find the benefits far outweigh the inconvience of a temple.Weaving Words
Sleazy is a term for loosely or poorly woven material.
The Kumihimo package came with five strands of synthetic yarn to start you off, and this is the first braid I did. I must admit that I really enjoyed it.
I enjoyed it so much that I pulled 60” of gold ribbon, purple orlec and navy orlec to braid. The ribbon I used singly but the orlec was tripled to match the ribbons thickness. The pattern was extremely simple and easily memorized, so I just kept going.
This is a close up of the braid.
Even though I made sure to alternate the tabby picks, there was definite deflections on some of the pattern picks. I started out by weaving 2” with sewing thread as the weft to make sure my hem will be flat, so I was off to a good start. I unwove and rewove this piece several times… I tried pattern – tabby – pattern …repeat, then tabby – pattern – pattern – tabby …repeat. Nothing seemed to get rid of the scrunching, I didn’t like it.
I found some 2/10 mercerized cotton for the weft that was just one tone and slightly bluer than my warp, so the effect is really lovely. This is weaving up very nicely and the floats give me great texture on the right side, the underside has no raised floats so the runner should lay flat. I’m a happy weaver today!
I took my remaining warp yarn with me, so I could colour coordinate….I was only going for one wee item!
Look at my Big Bag of Happy!
I was so taken with these lovely spring colours that I just kept on putting them on the table. The tall orange tube is 2 ply linen made in Scotland and the fat coral tube is 2/10 mercerized cotton. All the rest are 2/8 or 2/4 cotton. Don’t they just make you think spring!
Never one to leave with only what I need……I found these two beginners Hamanaka Kumihimo packages. I had purchased a Kumihimo book some time ago, but was thinking hard about investing in the stand and weighted tamas and these seemed to be a great way to see if I like to braid for $15.99 each.
The round disk is for round braids and is made from thick dense sponge like material; thankfully there are photos of each style of round braid and pictograph instructions. You just choose your colours and move the yarn in the order given and you’re off to the races.
The square plate is for flat braids, seems that everything else is the same. Now which one to try first?
On a completely different track, my tomato plants are doing exceptionally well and are into the 8th leaf set now. The grow lights have kept them from being too leggy, so that’s a bonus. I had to be quite horrid last week and felt so bad thinning each pot to only 1 plant, but sometimes you have to be cruel to be kind….
I went to the Shuswap Seedy Saturday last week; it’s an offshoot of Seeds of Diversity, which encourage saving heritage seeds- these seeds are open pollinators, so their offspring will be genetically the same as the parent plants. The seeds exchanged are never genetically modified, or terminator seeds – these are seeds that have been modified to produce sterile seeds to benefit the agrochemical industry. When you went through the door there was a huge table of seeds in bottles and envelopes, you just helped yourself to them and left any seeds that you had saved. It was wonderful and I was able to add 2 tomato varieties to my collection.
To this: The first step I took to make this dull natural linen piece stand apart was to soak it in a Procion MX dye bath for 30 minutes. I chose to make it a jade green and I was amazed at how well the linen took the colour. I was expecting to have the beige undertone dull down my colour, but that didn’t happen, the colour was clear and bright after drying.
Since this was my first attempt with fabric painting I decided to hedge my bets and use a commercial stencil. This one is of an Engleman Ivy plant. I used a foam brush and dabbed on watered down violet, then 4 shades of green that I made using the Dye-na-flow fabric paints. After 24 hours of drying time and hot ironing on the wrong side, the stencil is set and feels very soft.
I’m thinking of calling this small piece a flower rug, it highlights the bud vase nicely I think.
For my second piece I decided to be brave with the base colour and chose magenta, again the colour came up wonderfully. Procion MX is a wonder…..
Trying for a bit more originality I unearthed this hottie from my cupboard for inspiration and decided to try a poppy flower.
I sketched the components of the poppy onto a piece of paper; using a sharpie I transferred the design onto clear Mylar stencil medium. I had fears of drawing freehand onto the linen, so this was my compromise. I cut out the general shapes to ensure that my scale remained constant. I could just see myself making one leaf huge and the other tiny, or not having enough room for the flower or something like that!
After cutting the pieces out I painted in the general shapes with undiluted fabric paint, using several reds and greens to try and get a more life like effect.
After leaving the basic shapes to dry, with black and a fine brush I added bit more definition. Not as happy with this one, but my daughter says I’m very critical of my own work so I just have to find the right flower arrangement to highlight it. Susan, note the vase….and thank you for it!
In my ongoing attempts to finish up my projects I have finally washed my overshot with borders pieces and here they hang drying. I’m rather impressed with this mirror shot! Moving forward here…